In the Workshop: The trouble with linseed oil

I don’t know how many birdhouses I’ve made since I retired (likely approaching 200; no, it’s likely closer to 300; cripes, I don’t know, I’m so bad with numbers, and I can’t even remember what I had for breakfast; I don’t think I even had breakfast today. Sorry, I digress) but I bet I’ve added linseed oil - with a touch of maple stain - to at least half of them.


["Six-plex, w linseed oil, is drying on the porch": photos GH]

No, wait. It’s likely closer to 60 per cent.

Granted, that doesn’t make me an expert concerning linseed oil, but I have learned a thing or two about the stuff.


["This tri-plex, w linseed oil, has been drying for 7 - 10 days"]

For example:

It can be used as a laxative - for dogs.

You shouldn’t get it in your eyes.

Dry lumber, and most of my rescued lumber for chairs or birdhouses is very dry (underline ‘very’), soaks it up aplenty.

It takes 7 - 10 days to completely soak into the wood and, until it does, it gives off a noticeable odour. Not a bad odour, but a strong one, one that belongs outside the house.


["This photo, taken w the two above, inspired me to warm up my motorcycle this a.m."]

Linseed oil is also inexpensive, provides good protection for wood against the damp, and, with a titch of maple stain, is better than most expensive stains in a can.

Wait. One more item. It’s flammable. Don’t store used rags indoors until they have been thoroughly washed and dried.

When I make LP album frames (or frames for smaller records) I use tung oil. Lighter. Less smelly. Dries faster. More expensive, but worth it for projects that will end up indoors.

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